Northern Thailand MAE HONG SON
Nestled in a deep valley hemmed in by high mountain ranges, Mae Hong Son has long been isolated from the outside world. Virtually covered with mist throughout the year, the name refers to the fact that is terrain is highly suitable for the training of elephants.
Former governors of Chiang Mai used to organize the rounding up of wild elephants which were then trained before being sent to the capital for work. Today, Mae Hong Son is one of the “dream destination” for visitors who are attracted by its cultural and natural wonders.
Namtok Pha Sua
Namtok Pha Sua is in Tambon Mokchampae about 17 kilometres from the provincial seat on Route 1095 to Pai district with a left turn at Ban Rak Thai village. The waterfall is a further twenty kilometres from the village. It is a large fall with its water source in Myanmar. Pha Sua runs full during the late rainy season (August-September).
Another five kilometres further on along the path to high hill are the hilltribe villages of Na Pa Paek and Mae Or on the Thai-Burmese border.
Phraya Singhanatracha Memorial
Phraya Singhanatracha Memorial commemorates the first Chao Muang (governor) of Mae Hong Son. A Thai Yai native from Burma, he was regarded by the people as the governor of Khun Yuam, which was to the south of Mae Hong Son. Later, he was officially installed as the Chao Muang of Mae Hong Son by the King of Lanna in 1874.
Thai Yai Architecture
Thai Yai Architecture can be seen in most temples. Although a part of the Lanna region, the indigenous Thai Yai or Tai people living there are faced with very cold weather during winter and extremely hot weather in the summer, with mist or fog practically throughout the whole year.
Not surprisingly they have had to adapt to the environment. As a result, their architectural style has developed into something different from other Lanna communities. Their living quarters are usually built with tall floors and low roofs, the sizes differing according to one’s social status and position. Homes of the ordinary folks are usually with one single level of roof, while those of the local aristocrats have two or more levels forming a castle-like shape. The space thus provided is believed to help air circulation. An interesting feature of the Thai Yai style is the perforated designs along the eaves which are an architectural identity of the area.
Tham Pla Forest Park
About 17 kilometres from town on Highway No. 1095 (Mae Hong Son-Pai) is Tham Pla Forest Park . The surrounding areas are brooks and cool hilly forests suitable for relaxation. A special feature is the hollow cave filled with Phluang fish, which is of the same family as the carp. The fish are quite safe from being caught as they are believed to belong to the gods.
The Pha Bong Hot Spring
The Pha Bong Hot Spring is located on Highway No. 108, about 11 kilometres from town. There are facilities for mineral water bath for health purpose.
Wat Chong Kham
An old temple, Wat Chong Kham is located on the bank of the swamp Nong Chong Kham and was built in 1827 by Thai Yai artisans. The pillars are gilded in golden flakes. The temple houses a large Buddha statue with a lap width of 4.85 metres cast by Burmese craftsmen. The principal statue is another statue which is a replica of the statue in Wat Suthat in Bangkok.
Wat Chong Klang
Next to Wat Chong Kham is Wat Chong Klang where a replica of the Phra Buddha Sihing is installed on an altar. There are several interesting items such as wooden figurines of human and animals depicted in the Phra Vejsandon Jakata (pronounced Cha-dok which means one of odd stories of former incarnations of the Buddha) created by Burmese craftsmen and brought over in 1857, painting on glass about the Jakata and on Prince Siddhartha, as well as on the ways of life of the time. The captions are in Burmese. There are also notations that the paintings were by Thai Yai artisans from Mandalay.
Wat Hua Wiang
Wat Hua Wiang or Wat Klang Muang on Sihanat Bamrung Road next to the Morning Market was built in 1863. It houses the Phra Chao Pharalakhaeng, a Buddha statue dressed in beautiful attire. It is a replica of a major statue in Mandalay, Myanmar.
Wat Kam Ko
Opposite Wat Phra Non is Wat Kam Ko , an old temple built in 1890. A special architectural feature is the cover over the passageway from the entrance arch to the Burmese-style Vihara* (Vihara means an edifice housing a a principal Buddha image of the temple). It also stores text in Thai Yai script chronicling the Thai Yai history.
Wat Phra Non
At the foot of Doi Kong Mu is Wat Phra Non , which houses a 12-metre long Reclining Buddha in the Tha Yai style cast in 1875 by Phra Nang Miah, wife of Phraya Singhanatracha. Another main feature of the temple is the two large sculpted lions lying side by side, presumably providing the passage for those going up to pay homage to the Kong Mu Holy Relic on the hill.
Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu
Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu , located on a hill to the west of town, is a major provincial landmark. There are two Burmese-style Chedis (pagodas). The larger one was built in 1860 while the smaller one was erected in 1874. A panoramic view of Mae Hong Son can be enjoyed from the site.
Poi Sang Long Procession is in fact the celebration of novice ordination which the Thai Yai tribe people hold to be a highly meritorious occasion. Traditionally, the candidate-novice, his head cleanly shaven and wrapped with head-cloth in the Burmese style, will don a prince-like garment and put on valuable jewels and gems, and ride a horse or be carried over the shoulders of a man to the city shrine. On the ordination eve, a procession of offerings and other necessary personal belongings will be paraded through the town streets and then placed at the monastery where the ordination will take place the next day. It is usually held during March-May before the Buddhist Rain Retreat period.
Chong Phara Procession The Chong Phara in the Thai Yai dialect means a castle made of wood, covered with colourful perforated papers and decorated with fruits, flags and lamps. It is placed in the courtyard of a house or a monastery as a gesture to welcome the Lord Buddha on his return from giving sermons to his mother in heaven, according to traditional belief. Other activities to celebrate the occasion include dances where performers are dressed in animal costumes. The rite is held during the post rain retreat season from the full-moon day of the 11 the Lunar month (around October) to the waxing moon night of the same month.
Bua Tong Blossom Festival Each year in November, the hillsides of Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang districts are filled with a host of golden Bua Tong Blooms. As gay as a daisy and almost as large as a sunflower, the Bua Tong only blossoms for a month.
At Doi Mae U-Kho, the blossoms appear profusely. Finally, the golden blooms become part of the scene. Some specialists have classified these Bua Tong as weeds and because of this, they may be cleared to make way for cash crops. Fortunately a group of researchers have discovered the flower’s insect-repellent properties. And perhaps that is why the Bua Tong, a symbol of Mae Hong Son, is still preserved on the hillsides.
Loi Krathong Festival Loi Krathong Festival is held on the full moon night in the month of November every year. Villagers make “krathongs” to float in rivers. At Nong Chong Kham, various entertainments and a contest of large krathongs are held near the central pond. Lamps and candles are lit all around the area. Moreover, at Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, there is a ceremony of releasing candle-lit krathongs bound with balloons to the sky (known as “Loi Krathong Sawan”).
Distances from Mae Hong Son town (Amphoe Muang) to the other districts:
Amphoe Pang Mapha 64 kms.
Amphoe Khun Yuam 67 kms.
Amphoe Pai 111 kms.
Amphoe Mae La Noi 134 kms.
Amphoe Mae Sariang 164 kms.
Amphoe Sop Moei 192 kms.
Bus
From Bangkok
Mae Hong Son is located 924 kilometres from Bangkok. Muang Nua Tour (Tel: 01 441 6871) operates an airconditioned bus which runs directly from Bangkok to Mae Hong Son. The bus departs from Mochit II Bus Terminal at 18.00 hours every day. The trip takes about 17 hours.
There is no direct flight from Bangkok to Mae Hong Son. Tourists may take the Bangkok-Chiang Mai flights which connect with the Chiang Mai-Mae Hong Son flights. Reservation should be made in advance through Thai Airways, Tel: 0 2280-0060, 0 2628-2000 or call 1566 for current schedule.
From Chiang Mai
Mae Hong Son can be reached from Chiang Mai either by Highway No. 108 via Mae Sariang, or Highway No. 1095 via Pai which shortens the distance to some 274 kilometres. Regular buses are operated by Prem Pracha Transport, Tel: 0 5324 4737, 0 5324 2767.
Buses depart from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station daily to Mae Hong Son by two different routes:-
Southern route
Buses leave frequently from Chaing Mai to Mae Hong Son via Hot, Mae Sariang, and Khun Yuam districts from 6.30-21.00 hours. The journey takes 8 hours.
Northern route
Buses leave frequently from Chaing Mai to Mae Hong Son via Pai district from 07.00-12.30 hours. The journey take 6 hours.
There are 4 daily flights from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. Tourists are advised to book tickets at least 2 days before departure. Contact Thai Airways Tel: 0 5321 0043-5, 0 5321 1044-7 (Chiang Mai), or 0 5361 1297, 0 5361 1194 (Mae Hong Son).
Car
From Bangkok, take Highway No. 32 to Nakhon Sawan via Ayutthaya, Ang Thong and Sing Buri and then proceed along Highway No. 1 to Kamphaeng Phet, a total distance of 358 kilometres.
Being in a cool valley, Mae Hong Son is suitable for tea-growing. The main area of tea plantations is at Ban Rak Thai, a border village. In February, a Tea-Tasting Fair is held. Visitors can ride on horses to view the surroundings and performances by the villagers who are descended from Yunnan Chinese.
Koop
The traditional headgear called “Koop” worn by the Tai is wide-brimmed with taper top. Together with bamboo blinds and Karen woven fabrics, they are quite popular items to buy among visitors.
hand-made products
Mae Hong Son Royal Folk Art Centre offers a variety of hand-made products from woven fabric to wickerware and visitors can have an opportunity to see how the handicrafts are made.
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